Adventure to Elephanta Island

Yes I realise this sounds like the plot of a budget Jumanji spin-off, but please bear with me. I thought it was time I embraced by inner tourist this weekend by seeing some of the sites of Mumbai, so I jumped in a taxi to the Gateway of India.

 

It was actually my second visit to the grande arch, erected to commemorate King George V  and Queen Mary's visit in 1911. I first went back in February, before I lived in Mumbai, whilst inappropriately dressed in heels and a suit. I looked so out of place that one family must have mistaken me for Kate Middleton because a baby was promptly thrust into my hands for pictures.

 

This time round the Gateway was absolutely heaving with extended families, vendors, guides, photographers and the obligatory groups of young men showing off. This was actually a blessing as it meant I stood out far less than the real travellers and tourists, who looked completely overwhelmed.

If I could’ve offered them one piece of advice it would be this – JUST SAY NO, KIDS. Nothing is free, the holy men will expect a donation and never ever take the first price you’re quoted.

 

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As all of those that have holidayed with me can confirm, I love a boat trip. I decided not to opt for the upmarket tourist boat, which costs an extra 50 rupees but comes with a guide, because I couldn’t find it. The ferry I boarded was great and made all the more amusing by a friendly group of Thai tourists and their guide. The poor man spent the entire journey frantically running round the boat prying cameras out of people’s hands, as you’re not allowed to take photos on the water.

 

A few minutes in and we were treated to a beautiful view of the Gateway and Taj.

Everyone rushed to a small stall when we arrived at Elephanta and being too stubborn to ask what it was selling, I blindly waved my 10 rupees and was issued with a ticket. This turned out to be for the small steam train that drops you at the bottom of the stairs – well worth it in the heat, although it only takes you a mere 600m.

Climbing is not my thing and given that I had not done any research, I was less than pleased to be surprised by relatively steep flight of stairs to the caves. However, my hatred of physical exertion in 30 degree heat is far outweighed by my love of markets and I thoroughly enjoyed flitting between the stalls that line the stairway to the top.  

When I eventually paid my 250 rupees to pass through the gates to the caves, it was like walking into an Indiana Jones movie. The temple is carved into a hillside and guarded by monkeys. I declined the offer of a guide and made do with the 100 rupee guidebook I’d purchased at the gate, which I thought explained everything in enough detail and meant I could explore at my own pace.

It also turns out that my Kate Middleton moment wasn’t a one off; if you’re blonde and ‘Ruben-esque’ prepare to be asked by everyone for photographs. I politely declined because I had visions of appearing on people’s Facebook pages looking sweaty and unkempt, and no one objected. I now know how Britney feels.

I’ve since read some of the reviews on Trip Advisor and I think these are completely unfair. The carvings of Shiva are damaged - they’ve been around for hundreds of years and caves are damp - but I loved the atmosphere. It's also nice to see some jungle as it feels a million miles away from the city.

 

 

The cost seemed to irk a few foreigners because you pay more if you're not an Indian national. Get a grip. A ticket to the caves is under £3, which is significantly less than you'd pay getting into most heritage sites in Europe with the obvious exception of London museums.

For those with one eye on the paisas, the breakdown of rupees spent on my little adventure was:

 

Overall I’d give Elephanta Island an 8 out of 10 for 'visitors from home will definitely get dragged here with a picnic'. If you still need convincing, frolicking monkeys should do it.